Monday, March 23, 2009

Savage Gulf


Finally made it to the Savage Gulf, part of the South Cumberland Recreation Area, in Tennessee’s outstanding state park system. Been wanting to visit for years. Worth the trip, only about 45 miles away.

We visited the Stone Door end, took the Big Creek Rim and Laurel trails as a loop, after hiking through the Stone Door. Started down into the gulf but changed our minds, as it was already midday. Also took the short loop to Laurel Falls from the visitors center. Total hiked, about eight miles in a leisurely five hours.

Ranger station well set up with ample paved parking, bathrooms, sign in/map station and . Excellent free map of all trails and sites. Trail from there to first overlook paved. Get a nice view of the gulf.


Then the hike through the woods begins to Stone Door. That alone worth it, especially the climb up and down the many steps through the door. How many Indians, poneers and tourists have passed that way?

Word of caution to anyone with children venturing even this far. The Stone Door trail leads to first of many bluffs—cliffs might be a more apt description—with a straight drop off the edge into the gulf. Watch where you walk, and keep those kiddies close at hand.

From top of Stone Door the Big Creek Rim Trail begins. It’s a three mile amble through the woods, returning again and again the the natural rock outcroppings overlooking the gulf. Some
breathtaking views of woods, gulf, and trail far down below, the roar of the river cascades shouting up to you. Buzzards saunter in and out of view, gliding their thermals. Early spring out, so the gulf dotted with occasional splotches of maple reds and oranges and yellow greens of early blooming poplars.

Not crowded at all so we took a break from the trail on one of these bluffs, had the whole gulf to ourselves, just watch and listen and take it all in. Kings of all we surveyed.

Trail eventually leads to the Alum Gap campground, primitive campsites, permits required.

From there our loop back followed the Laurel Trail another three miles back to the Ranger station. An easy, uneventful walk, save for the stands of mountain laurel and patches of club moss breaking up the woods. Best for late April or May when the laurel is in all its glory.

We had a great time, and only touched all there is to see or hike at Savage Gulf. Next time we’ll visit the other end of the Gulf, at the Savage Ranger Station, and sample the trails there. Probably wait until fall, when the gulf runs with color.